Naomi Galpin reflects on her visit to Pututja and surrounding communities on the Pitjantjatjara Lands.

For me it was a culture shock when we first got there. As we drove for 400kms along the very bumpy 10m wide dirt road we saw random wrecks of cars by the side of the road. There were donkeys blocking the road at one point, wild brumbies running by and few camels. I knew I was definitely not in Adelaide anymore, or in my idea of what well known Australia was like. The family that invited us waved as we turned up, happy to see us but very shy at the same time.

I felt so much like a 'white' middle class Australian in a foreign land. Red dust gets everywhere! Even though the family had already 'cleaned' the house for us we felt we needed to clean it some more before we brought our food and bedding in. We had taken up SO much stuff, including chairs, food, music equipment, craft supplies, water, bedding and clothing it must have looked to the family as if we were going to move in for a year not a week.

The campfire was going for us when we arrived and because it was cold one of the first things we did was add a heap of extra wood to the fire. We later found out that the Aboriginal ladies can make two long branches last all day in their fire.

By the second day we were settled in. Those who had come up the previous year were able to quickly rekindle their relationships with the Aboriginal family and play with the kids. I found it surprising how shy the Aboriginal kids and ladies were. You could tell they were trying to work you out, watching everything you did; not missing anything. It was comforting to hear the ladies whisper words to one another and sometimes to us. There was no need for loudness because there was no competing for voice time or overpowering conversation. Everyone is heard; what's necessary is said and everyone is listened to instead of talked over.

One of the best experiences there was participating in a ladies Bible study with some of the older ladies. Incredibly, some of the ladies had been working over the last 10-20 years interpreting the Bible into their own language. Not all of it was done, but a lot of the gospels and psalms were. We asked one of the older ladies what her favourite bible verse was. She said, John 3:16: "For God so loved the world, that he sent his only son, so that who ever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life." I feel that we white fellas take that verse for granted, skimming over it a lot, thinking it's basic and over-preached. But hearing it from this lady made me see how when Christianity is stripped down to the bones and basics, this is it. This is what knowing God begins with, is and what it ends with. No matter what culture you're in, who you are, this universal religion has so much truth in it that it penetrates souls in every culture. It is the truth to life. We prayed afterwards. I felt so emotional that all I could do was cry while praying.

The ladies prayed that their men would rise up and that their children would know God. They were so sad about the effect petrol sniffing was having on this generation, how marijuana use is increasing in their communities, and how alcohol is ruining lives. The truth and only hope they have is in God to change it. So all we can do is pray.

They have found the Government changes policies so much that it's hard to keep up with what it really means. In conferences the elders have with white fellas, where changes are explained to them by government officials, they don't actually understand because things are rushed through, working to a 'white' timeframe. They feel powerless, but agree to the new changes anyway. This is the Aboriginal way of being polite but this is not always in their best interests.

One lady told how she went to the graveyard in Fregon, and found a lot of fresh graves of young men who had committed suicide. And that just broke my heart. All ready there is a 17 year age difference in life expectancy between non-Indigenous Australians and Indigenous Australians. They are at much a greater risk of heart disease and diabetes. When you look at the statistics and the lack of government resources to close the gap you can understand some of the sense of powerlessness and desperation they feel.

On a more personal note, I think that getting to know the family at Pututja and a few other families from Ernabella and Fregon helped me to understand what a beautiful and unique people the Pitjantjatjara people are. They opened up their lives to us, took us to their sacred sites, and shared their artistic abilities with us. We were so blessed to learn from them, and to praise God with them at Inmas (worship times), and to just spend time with them. The non-clock concept of time is so releasing; the lack of commercialisation is freeing; and the lack of technology brings everyone together and closer. It felt like this is how life is meant to be.

The children we got to know were fantastic kids. They are incredibly intelligent knowing both their language and ours. The way they learn by watching and listening is fascinating. They are really happy kids with an abundance of energy. To know the statistics, that these kids are twice as likely to die than non-Indigenous kids and twice as likely to go to hospital, is so saddening. I guess being a nurse you think about their health a lot more than other people might.

Overall, Pututja was the best experience I've had in a long time. I really pushed myself to bond with my feral side (camping and no make up, hahha!) and I learned a lot personally. I haven't been this happy in a long time. I hope one day to help the family up there in some way.

More News